yes I run into that whilst setting up Octoprint and via a plugin it was resolved, not sure what version etc from top of my head,so @Ol_Dave thanks for the tip, Octoprint works great, yes as I was doing some research on shrinkage and various filaments I came across that calibration cubical as well, the shrinkage factor is very interesting , I have printed a VR Sensor mount for a good friend, he is into tractor pulling and currently busy with a new engine build 2 Ltr 4 cylinder in line that will run on Methane (alcohol) hoping to get near 1000 HP ,I have printed the part in PLA and done various runs each time using a different infill setting etc, this Sunday he is going give the parts a heat treatment so make the part more heat resistant, ABS is another option but has a significant amount of shrinkage, anyway no matter what filament used once the shrinkage factor for X Y and Z are known than this can be taken into account in the measurements of the original drawing in FreeCad, so this 3D Printing is already getting out of hand at my end and some interesting stuff to investigate and research 
Consider testing PETG too that should be more heat resistant and is easy to print like PLA.
Iâd agree PETG is easy to print and heat resistant like ABS. If youâre going to be printing things that will be exposed to super high heat, you can prototype in PLA and then send the print out to be done in metal.
And stick to PLA for everything else. Cause it is biodegradable (at least as advertised). Save a planet.
Thanks for the PETG suggestion, sending out to a company to get the part done in metal is not really an option as it would become to expensive, these type of parts will not be produced in large amounts for sale or production as this is a custom designed part for a custom designed engine and private Tractor Pulling project, my friend actually has a well equipped workshop with tig welding capabilities, a very accurate Lathe and Milling Machine and a lot more wonderful tools (toys) to play with I actually was thinking the same why not make this part in Metal having the right tools for it so I asked him, he simply said that milling the part would be very time consuming and certain shapes would be hard or impossible to create with his non CNC Milling Machine and therefore the 3D printer is the best, easiest and cheapest alternative , so fair enough, anyway the heat treatment on the PLA part was done last night with the results below for those who are interested: He heated a pan with water to 80 degrees celcius, threw the parts in the pan of water and kept this going for several hours finally after having the parts kinda âcookedâ the final results where achieved in the picture, the deformed part speaks for itself and was printed on a heated bed Temp 60 °C ,Nozzle Temp 200 °C with 0.14 mm resolution and 20% infill line pattern the other usable part was printed with the same settings except the infill was 100% line pattern but shrinkage was not in such a way present for the measurements of the part to go to far off and still usable to be mounted, having that said the 20% infill part was in cold untreated state most accurate in comparison of the original drawing in freecad ,to be precise 0.14 mm off, Note the 0.14 the other part was 0.64 mm off in cold untreated state but after the heat treatment this did not change on such a way for the part to become unusable for its purpose , so all in all pleased with the final outcome and quality of this low budged 3D printer, it does do what it needs to do I guess , and yes printing the part was time consuming as well and the 100% infill version took well over 4 hours but the printer was doing all the hard work not me and yes maybe some of you find this a lot of effort to make such a part, but hey, I like to play and investigate how things work and help a good friend
I think what @brianczapiga wanted to say is send the model out an let it print in metal. This will not be as expensive as let it manufacturing the regular milling way
Aah understood and miss understood I guess
I tend to avoid shilling specific companies, but Shapeways in particular can 3D print bronze, brass, and stainless steel 316L amongst other materials.
It can be a little expensive to print in these materials, but if youâre only doing it for 1 part for a friend, just be sure that youâre dimensionally accurate before sending the print out to the shop (as you only want to print it once.)
ok thank you for the info, much appreciated
PLA gets soft in a hot car in the summer. Itâs pretty strong but also pretty brittle. Depending on where you are using it on a vehicle, especially a hot & violent 1000hp pulling machine I donât expect it will last. PETG is a little softer, but is more flexible & forgiving, not to mention less prone to melting at normal environmental temperatures. ABS is better all around mechanically & heat resistance wise, but does have issues printing well due to warping.
ABS fumes is a bit toxic. Requires very hot bed and hotend for printing. Closed case is recommended to avoid deformations. Prone to shrinking after cooling down. Not a best choice for novice. 90% time PET-G will suite your needs better.