I’m looking to convert my boards (TTGO T-Beam ESP32) so they can be used with SexyCyborg’s ‘Not a Pipe Bomb Case’. The boards need to fit inside a 50mm tube. I’m completely unfamiliar with this type of hardware and want to double-check what I’m doing. I have three questions:
Would I be able to de-solder the antenna port on the board and flip it 180 degrees so the cable extends over the board and fits better in the tube? She’s using some other type of termination there I’m unfamiliar with.
Any idea what kind of antenna she’s using (she isn’t responding)? I’m assuming a variety of aftermarket antennas would provide better range, but I don’t know what exactly to look for so it’s compatible with the board.
It looks like SexyCyborg is using the version with the UFL antenna connector which might be a better option for your purpose. Depending on how the pads looks underneath the SMA connector on the standard version, you might be able to solder in a UFL connector and then use it with a UFL-SMA pigtail.
Personally I would also prefer if the antenna was in line with the board instead of perpendicular to it. Would fit better in bags/pockets etc with less risk of damage.
I too have been wrestling with a rugged, weatherproof mounting for the T-Beam.
I found that even 65mm PVC tubing was not wide enough to accommodate the right angle SMA antenna connector and a plug in the uUSB opposite.
(I did remove the SMA from a T-Beam using a rework hot air gun (unsolder the battery holder first!), but I don’t recommend it.)
The new T-Beam version comes with a uFL instead, much better, as it can swivel inline, so maybe fit in smaller tube (BUT mine haven’t arrived yet, deliveries from China are taking very much longer than usual…)
So a recent (rooftop repeater) prototype simply uses the 100mm PVC pipe as used for grey water, etc. T-Beam sits across it, with antenna standing up inside. A screwed cap with rubber gasket on top, and a glued cap on the base. Should have a screened vent, to avoid condensation.
Power from a 5v PV panel (later a flexible PV panel glued around the base of the tube, to avoid rodent-exposed wiring and make it suitable for hauling up a tree, or perching on a cliff
BTW: The Heltec and the ttgo-lora32-v1 have their uUSB connex inline, the Heltec antenna is a uFL pigtail, and the ttgo-lora32-v2 has a tiny resistor that the brave-heated can move to enable the uFL (I haven’t, yet!) So they will fit into 40mm pipe with battery for a nice little personal unit.
I’ve remoted the display on one of these, but am considering buying transparent tubing.
Awesome! Did you just modify SexyCyborg’s spring and print it so it would fit in a larger pipe? Or are you suspending the board through a different method? I keep looking at the board thinking there’s more than one way to suspend it in the pipe.
What are the biggest disadvantages of going without the display?
You really don’t want the stub line left. You would be better off soldering the micro-coax to the board after removing the SMA, though depending on the coax that will be a challenge.
I removed an SMA connector and, like greghall-au mentioned, I used a hot air rework station. It was not an easy job since it uses a type of solder that I think has a higher melting point than normal. I used some kapton tape to mask around it but I’m still surprised I didn’t ruin the board. I got an IPEX connector soldered in and everything appears to be working.
