Can the T-beam's sma connector be rotated 90 degrees on the board?

I would like to print this case for it
(I have a whole separate problem with that as the file is a .step file and idk if i can convert to stl)

It mentions t-beams having manually rotated sma connectors and with my use case I have already broke two tbeam’s sma connectors and I think I can prevent it if I rotate the sma connector. Problem is I have a soldering iron and none of the points of the sma connector are budging, i hold it there for a good while and it doesn’t behave like the solder/flux I’m used to it literally seems to be doing nothing and i dont want to break anything else. Appreciate any help

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Yes it’s possible. It’s very hard to do. You must have a powerful soldering iron, 100W or more. Place a large ball of tin (to connect all 5 pins) and heat together. It takes some force to pull the sma out.

It’s not recommended unless you have the proper skills and tools to do so. Many folks have killed their axp chips which in turns kills the power management. @ronattack If you attempt do so with extreme caution.

When i posted this, i posted the modified version with the longer antenna as a .step file since more people wanted to modify it for their custom antennas. This is a prototype case I made and i only successfully rotated one SMA before i moved on to different hardware. I believe a hot air gun could do it properly but dont quote me on that.

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Having tried this and failed, I’m now in the “It’s Hard” camp.
I had a hot air reflow station and good tools, but the SMA connector on my T-Beam was uniquely “pressed” into the PCB, and removing it pulled up several of the pads, which stuck on the pins.

At least in my LILY v1.1 case, it did not “fall out” but got bound up somehow. it also took an absurd amount of heat because the connector itself sinks a lot of heat into the body.

All in all, go with a 90-degree SMA elbow if you have to.

Fully agree that it’s very difficult. I managed to rotate a few of them on some Tbeams. I did not have the right tools or skills, just a cheap iron from amazon that died on me before I finished the job. The connectors themselves have two bottom pins cut off to make room for the battery holder, so I had ordered new sma connectors to cut the right pins off the new ones for the new orientation. It does take a lot of heat. The most difficult part for me was the battery connector. Since I’m a noob, I ripped off some pcb pad taking the battery connector off. I ruined a couple Tbeams for various reasons, one doesn’t have working battery holder another I ruined the oled screen pins.

But I continued my attempts despite everyone’s warnings. My use case is music festivals and having the sma connector the normal way was not secure enough for me and caused me to break it like that so I needed to try.

I think the case I 3d printed was not designed correctly also (no offense, or really it was probably my error) the micro usb port was too small the case is a little bulkier and I had to edit it and it needed longer screws which it didn’t specify. Despite this, I still think rotating it would be much better for me, maybe I’ll give it one final try to make 1 perfectly constructed Tbeam.
I’m conclusion, it is probably not worth it for most people

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The micro usb hole is not meant for a regular cable. its meant for the magnetic release ones. I have no screw lengths specified on the thingiverse write-up. Which ones did you need to get “longer”. M3x20 socket head cap screws would be the correct bolts.

Well, if you’re good with sacrificing devices to figure it out by trial and error and the costs associated with that versus just purchasing another device better suited for your use-case, who are we to judge. Glad it sort of, kind of worked out for you.

Hey when u get a chance may I know what the part on the bottom is to mount in a tripod what do I search for? And what sized screws for those please

tripod mounts are always 1/4-20 nuts/bolts.

This is how Lilygo should be making them…at least for our purposes…