When in disaster scenario, people not have time to grab it all together, you want to run for your live.
In this build case unit, you able to grab on the large antenna and you run for it. One simple or small, handy unit to put in your pocket, still be the best option.
BUILD:
Top box i drill a hole to fit the N-female bulkhead and the mast mount clamp came with the Sirio antenna.
Build 8x of these boxes to setup in city area, just 1x small case/box for easy pickup and install.
TODO:
modification to move the GPS antenna to the top
external WiFi / BT antenna outside or inside the case (not decide if or where i put it)
Nice, it looks very pro. I’m waiting for the NRF52 work to develop a bit & then I’ll probably have another go at my solar node
Would you be up for sharing the case/antenna you use?
One observation from building community wireless networks back in the day, is things almost always leak eventually. It’s not always possible, but if you can mount both your antenna and cable glands on the bottom of your enclosure you reduce the risk of leaks. There’s usually a performance hit in at least one direction, as the pole interferes with your RF, but often worth doing IMHO if you want installations to last years/decades.
There is a IP65 box on the backside solar panel, in the box are 2x USB-A 5 Volt 1 Amp and 2.5 mm 12 Volt 1 Amp output. Solar panel are used for powering IP camera’s in the field, garden or where is no power.
Cost 70,00 US / EURO on amazon
Nice, there’s plenty of use cases where that would be a good solution. I seem to remember I couldn’t get my Waveshare module to automatically boot after a low-voltage lockout condition, but I might have had a faulty unit/ used it incorrectly.
Below 15 degrees, LifePo or other type be less powerfull, Gell battery always defect after winter. NiMh accu or a AGM acid battery still best option and used in emergency power source. Normally i use motorbike battery for stand-alone units, and 10 Amp is heavy and big sized filling the half case. or use a peltierelement (passive thermos-electric element) for heating
Could you explain the power bank in your context? How would you avoid charging that below -0c? Or is it just there as proof of concept?
Is this ~£52 10Ah AGM the kind of thing you’d use? Presumably, that would have its own enclosure? Is there any affordable true MPPT available for AGM at that scale? Or would you just stick with PWM and a ~10w ~20w 18v nominal panel?
I drive motorbike for 48 years, Acid batterys are big and heavy in to a case mounted on mast.
Forgot your first question,
i drive electric motorbike for 2 years in winter, it charge but not fully like when above 15 - 20 degrees Winter drive 20 - 30 km than its empty, summer its over 80+ km distance.
Yes if using AGM it would need to be mounted separately which seems complicated.
That’s why I like the LifePO4. They could be mounted on a pole in below-freezing conditions, with the MPPT/heater.
I still don’t quite understand why there is a Li-ion power bank in your photo? Is it just for testing? Or for a warm climate deployment?
