3D Printed Cases etc

This is nice and looks great.

I am very interested in this one. Great design. I can’t wait to print this.

image
wow 126 downloads in 5 min…

I’ll work on alternative backplates on the weekend…probably.

14 Likes

Thank you @b8b8 for making the stl files available to print this case.
Here is a preview of the print on Ultimaker Cura, calculated to finish after 7 hours :sweat_smile:



3 Likes

I think you need 2 more of the small pins. But the missing two should only take a few minutes :sweat_smile: May I ask if you print with pla or petg? Lots of success for your print.

1 Like

Haha Thanks, I forgot about the other two pins :sweat_smile:
I am printing with PLA at 200°C with 40mm/s.
The PLA that I am using is not very good, especially for beginners who want to learn how to print with the 3D printer.
It is a type of PLA that looks too liquid when it comes out of the print head but dries up immediately creating strange threads that also accumulate PLA chunks that stick to the print head.
I recommend a larger print head “0.6~0.8” compared to the one I am using which is “0.4”
All credits of successful prints go to Anycubic i3 Mega which prints quite well :grin:
Next time I will show the printer settings maybe someone will find them here interesting :slightly_smiling_face:
I leave however the photo of the pla that I am using which I do not recommend much for small print head, and for very fast printing.

i always print with PETG now. Dont increase your nozzle size beyond the 0.4mm standard and print at 0.2mm layer height. you might have tolerance issues otherwise.

1 Like

According to my three years experience with 3D printing, I think 0.4 with 0.2 layer height is fine in all cases, as you have recommended.
The PLA I am using is not suitable for printing structures that need to be filled, I tested it many times with 0.6 print heads with 0.3 height with good results in spiral prints as is usually used in flower pots.
For that I do not recommend it for beginners, because they can be found not very well with the prints of this PLA. Anyway I will post the photos of the finished works that I did perfectly :grin:

Print just finished.
VERY BEST Case ever!

just two suggestions for possible improvement from my point of view:

  1. an additional, sixth case screw someware around the button as the plates are a little bit too flexible in that area.
  2. the hole for the sling could be on the opposite end, in the area of the GPS, to keep the antenna pointed upwards if a sling is used.

1000 Thanks for your development and for sharing your work!!!

Another idea:

a backplate for standard 18650 batteries… :wink:

3 Likes
  1. Not enough room. I wanted to make the profile as small as possible. When i originally designed this case i tried put 2 more bolts in but there would only be room on the left side. Shifting the entire board to the left for more of a gap on the right side would mean that the magnetic charger wouldnt be flush with the side of the case.

  2. Complete.
    https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/25/cf/a2/f0/ef/Slim_Case_2.1_-_Frame.STL
    image

2 Likes

Best man!!!

Downloaded and printing.

Is it possible to support your work? Do you have paypal?

1 Like

Here are some 3D printing results. Discreet printing but I am not super satisfied, I could do better with dynamic layer with “Cura” to give more details. :grin:
I think black PLA gives better results :relieved:
“Cura” software, however has some problems with the Beta version! Sometimes the printer accelerates like crazy leaving layers detached from each other.
If you look closely you can see lines between some layers!
For now I couldn’t figure out why “Cura” does this and fix the problem.
I believe that “Cura” does not keep the same speed when making walls and when finishing the wall on the outside and inside :sweat_smile:

1 Like

To prevent accel between layers, go to custom/layers and set the z-seam alignment to shortest. Or go to custom/speed menu and set the travel speed lower.

To change the difference between inner wall and outer wall speed is in the custom/speed menu.

This is from memory so I might have messed up the menu locations.

1 Like

Most of the heavy lifting for this project is software. I’m just happy to provide some input to the hardware side. I long ago gave up on GoTenna and Sonnet. I like that this project is completely free and open source so it wouldn’t be fair to even accept donations.

1 Like

:heart_eyes::+1:t2:

Would it be possible to design an backplate which fits to the standard 18650 battery?

I think it you be a good option for all who doens‘t have access to the ps4 lipo and would give the option to replace an empty battery quickly.

3 Likes

already mentioned. I just havent had the time yet. ill probably do a single and double 18650 option if i have the width.

OK here’s an UNTESTED 18650 battery cover. Everything seems to fit fine in the SolidWorks assembly but i havent actually printed it yet. Print at your own risk.

https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/07/8a/b5/f4/0c/Slim_Case_6.1_-_Battery_Cover_18650.STL

Print in 3, 2, …

Another idea:

I rotated my SMA connector by 90 deg.
The center frame almost fits and would need only very minor changes.
The top plate would need also some little additional room.
That would optionally integrate the antenna with reduced overall lenth, reduced risk to break the external antenna and all users with the big SMA connector on there boards could use your frame design as well.
Do you think this is possible?

1 Like

Actually no changes required at the center frame and only very, very minor at the top plate.